28/06
It's 5am and we wake up with a sore heart. The sun rises over the Himalayan mountains in a symphony of purple and pink. It seems the skies are also saying goodbye in a marvellous style. We're leaving for Delhi this morning and we're excited but also very sad to leave this beautiful part of the world that worked its magic on us...
Our lovely host wakes up to get us some chai and to say goodbye, we are very touched. Wrapping up our bags and sipping our tea away, we say farewell to our fabulous bedroom and get in the taxi. We are pretty silent, looking at the mountains and the roads we've rode on passing in front of our windows. Leh is still, quiet and deserted, the shops are closed, like a little mourning, the town shying away, fading away. New adventures wait for us, Delhi is near, so does the end of the trip. We try not to think too much about it but it's there. We're both very emotional and our eyes speak for ourselves. We pass in front of the gigantic army camps on the way to the airport. We get our numerous luggages through the check in and customs and wait for our plane in the less than fancy derelict airport. We chose to fly in order to stay in Leh longer and avoid that dreadful 3 day trip on the bus to Delhi. Our carbon footprint is getting a little bit too much but things we want to do in and around Delhi can't wait...
For some reason we got an upgrade once again for this flight...it's only one and a half hour flight but we're in first class...loads of legroom and seats are twice as large as normal ones...self indulgence...We take off and after few moments we see all the Himalayan range from a different point of view...green valleys inserts between these enormous sharp teeth that are the summits, few clouds around and peaks piercing through them...then the mountains shrink to make space for larger valleys, slowly covering themselves with trees. The Himalayas draw to a close and in a spectacular drop, disappear underneath the arid plains...the landscape is absolutely stunning from the little plane windows...I try to take pictures, Val passing out in her comfy seat. Slowly we see buildings and the gigantism of Delhi unravelling. And we finally touch down in Delhi. We knew about it but it's early morning and we're already near the 40 degrees here. And a little more humid than two months ago...the monsoon is arriving soon...The next three days will be HOT. Period. We get our bags and make our way to Pahar Ganj in a taxi we're sharing with a Hungarian guy. We find a small hotel, cheap but with aircon in a side alleyway to the bazar. It's a great location as it is not on the main street but many more locals are around and we get to see loads of local life with local eateries and chai shops busy with locals and (nearly) no tourists. We rest for a little while and go visit a few shops in the area, talk to shopkeepers, street vendors or simply smiling indian people etc. We then decide to explore some further areas outside of Delhi to try and find some furnitures...It's sunday many furniture shops are closed. We visit Hauz Khas village near a very posh new part of the town and some other colourful markets nearby. Then the sky breaks up in a massive storm which leaves us soaked once again. But within minutes and thanks to the heat (a little less hot now!) we dry up quicky. We then move back to the city, near Connaught Place where we go to an emporium. And we decide to walk back to the bazar. We really want to take in as much as we can of the people's kindness, interest, curiosity, vision of life during our last days. We smile to everyone around and walk and walk again. We buy a few souvenirs and discover some parts of the bazar we did not know. At the end of the day we come across a ceremony in the middle of the street. Women are making offerings to deities, candles, burning oil, flowers, candies, asking for the protection of a newborn. We go for dinner in one of our favourite local we discovered the last time. The kids still remember us and we have fun with them as they play fools when the boss turn around...and we go to bed...tomorrow we'll wake up early again: we're going to the Taj Mahal!!!!!!!!!!!
29/06
Our train is at 6am so we wake up very early. It's been raining all night. The bazar is muddy and we walk in the middle of the street trying to avoid the puddles, but at this time the bazar is still asleep so we have loads of space! New Delhi train station is already very busy, some people going on business, some going on holidays, some still sleeping on the floor, some around a ticket office probably still queuing since yesterday to get second class tickets to wherever...We find our train which will take us to Agra and the legendary Taj Mahal. We take place on our train with a lot of Indian tourists going on a day trip like us. Two hours later we make it to the station of one of the most touristic place of India, if not the most touristic. Hords of touts and desperate taxis and rikshaw drivers are waiting outside and jump on the freshly arrived people, Indian or not. We try to make it to the taxi boot but are being sort of rescued by a German couple who are going to the Taj. The've already been negociating for a while and are looking for two other people to share the cost. It won't be much! We're at the lowest of the season here, not so many tourists are around because of the temperature. Many drivers will not make a roupie today, surprisingly they're haggling between them, it's madness, they're argueing and the prices are still dropping...it's very disturbing, we start thinking they won't even cover their costs...so we get one of the nicest guys and not the cheaper and get in his taxi. The Taj Mahal is few kilometers away and the taxi takes us to the outside of the West Gate, on the outskirts of the external walls. Once again a large number of street sellers come to us desperate to sell a wooden box, a plastic snake, batteries or even useful stuff like light bulbs or bicycle tubes...We take our extremely expensive entry tickets comparatively to the standards of India. But hey it's the Taj Mahal right?!
We make our way to the first inner gate, the West gate, where we get thoroughly checked for security (I had to leave my newspapers?!) and process along the red walls to get to the gardens. Our hearts beat fast, the moment is magical and the mausoleum reveals itself slowly to our eyes. The set is theatrical, in a sort of movement of curtains created by the walls and the porch of the gigantic gate, the marvellous white splendour is uncovered...our eyes are wide opened and we're holding our breath. The moment is magical. Like millions (billions??) of people, we've seen it in books, on post-cards, on tv, in cinema...it's part of our world heritage and one of the most well know monument on earth...and it's in front of us...I don't know what to feel or think...this dream has become real and for a long time since I knew I would come here I was scared of having this myth crumbling down in front of me...being disappointed by something that would not be as beautiful I expected, or simply sad of the dream becoming a reality. But nothing as such...the Taj Mahal IS REALLY a splendor.
We walk around this piece of architecture built in 1653 (the work lasted for 22 years) by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. It is said that he was so sad after the loss of his wife that the emperor looked for an architect who could understand his vision of desperate love, found the best Persian architect and killed his wife so he could understand the pain and build the most beautiful testimony of love. The monument is entirely made of white marble with inlay of semi precious stones. We take a few pictures and walk around the magnificient gardens and walk towards the mausoleum. It is actually much larger and taller than I ever thought and we understand why it's taken so long to built it. We are really struck by the beauty of the place, the proportions, the symetry and the precision and perfection. The craft is impressive, the stone inlays are stunning, beauty and such a fluidity in the movements...we're in love...The mausoleum chamber is sensational, really moving, with the carving of the thin marble pannels surrounding the tomb. Ceilings, floor, walls, dome...all marble and all splendid...We're so glad to be here...We then walk around and visit the symetrical mosques that flank the Taj, we observe (and ARE observed) the many local tourists, some with modern outfits, some in traditional dresses and saris...there is a feeling of time suspension here. We stop for a while and sit to watch the Taj...but we have to leave after few hours as Agra has other things to visit.
We take a rickshaw and go to visit the Red Fort, few kilometres away. The fort is one of the most important complex of India, made of many buildings and gardens. Its foundation dates back to the 11th century. But it took its present form under Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, the same behind the Taj Mahal. The fort in mainly made of red sandstone but also of inlaid white marble and sometimes gold. The emperor was at some point emprisoned by his son, and a white marble palace was built inside the fort so the emperor could still see his wife mausoleum. The compound is splendid, the gardens very well kept and the very strong sun reflecting on the white surfaces dazzles us despite the sun glasses!! We also spend a long time here, wandering around...but the day is soon over so we make our way to a place called the 'Baby Taj' (the real name is I'timād-ud-Daulah's Tomb). It's another mausoleum actually older than the Taj Mahal and is said to have been an inspiration for his more famous sister.
We hire a new rickshaw which is going to take us there, it's far but really worth it. On the way we see colourful markets, local life...not so many tourists around here. We witness the sad example of a widely spread corrupt system, a policeman is guarding a bridge and takes a bribe to any motor vehicle that may wish to cross. But not directly!!! A 'bribe collector' sits nearby and is a sort of intermediary...the policeman doesn't want to be seen being given the money!!! The rickshaw rides in the traffic, some motorbikes so heavily loaded they take three quarters of the road, other rickshaw with ten people inside...dear old India...and we arrive at the monument.
Val and I both loved this place, there is nearly nobody here, only us and a few monkeys...the mausoleum is not as big as the Taj but the inlaid marble is largely used here which is slowly turning red with the setting sun...and carved on the inside and the outside. The inside walls are covered with beautiful frescos, marble floor etc...In one of the wings some craftsmen are actually restoring the wall, manufacturing detailed inlays with traditional hand tools. Their father, and the father or their father worked the same way...We feel happy and privileged to share a moment with them. We then wait and watch the beginning of the sunset. Time flies and we have to return to see our rickshaw and go back to the station. We ask him to drop us in a nice eatery on the way and have a quick dinner before heading back to the station. We eat, read and start walking to the station...but it's much further away than planned and we have to take a cycle rickshaw on the fly! We make it the station and find our German friends on the platform...Streets kids are begging, some aggressively, some too young to be so, some crippled guys...'Agra cant't' station is a real theatre of India's drama...After a while (it's now 9pm) the different kids gather at the foot of the stairs, a policeman gives some of his baton...minutes later a man in a suit with a Panama arrives...they all show their hands and he picks the few rupees a couple of the kids have. The ones who have raised money will come and eat with him tonight...the others will have to beg for longer...maybe all night....We looked at each other and me and the German guy are really near to go and have 'a man chat' with this guy...but what about the kids???! We really feel useless here...
Our train finally arrives (rather late) and takes us back to Delhi. The bazar is now closed and we go and have another quick meal. The day has been rather filled up with intense emotions and we are very tired...we come back to the hotel and go to sleep quickly...
30/06
It's our last day here in India, and is also the last stop before our final destination...
We decided that we'll spend our last day trying to combine the excitment of shoppping with the sadness of our last day. The task seems hard as we are rather anxious about the next days as this incredible part of our life is coming to an end...so...we're going shopping, trying to find everlasting memories of our journey here...a mission...
We first get on a rickshaw to Sunder Nagar village. People have been recommending this place as we may find some nice antique furnitures. It's set in a very luxurious area with beautiful well fenced and guarded villas...But there is no furniture shop here so we do some window shopping for a while as the square presents some nice little shops of various junk from all over India. Inside the small shops, it's a symphony of so called antique jewellery, fake aged reproductions of various tribal objects, real pieces of ethnic art and imported stuff... Before we set off we enter a shop held by a Sikh guy, Singh. This short stop turns to a real head turning (or buzzing) event! We were just watching some old Indian movie posters and we end up talking Tibetan singing bowls and sound therapy with him...With another couple, we start experimenting the beneficial resonance of the singing bowls on our heads one after the other. We spend around an hour there....and a few roupies on a singing bowl!!!! It's a great purchase, from all the one we've seen in the North of India, this one DOES have a beautiful sound, unique, soft and pure...We're very happy...Then following a tip from our friend, we head off to Sharma Farm in the Southern outskirts of the city. After nearly an hour drive, we reach a vast area with several warehouses...filled up with...antiques!!!! They're not even restored yet!!! We walk through the alleys looking left and right in search of THE piece we'll bring back with us...We could furnish an entire house with what they have to offer: chairs, tables, coffee tables, doors, palaces wooden porches, wardrobes, chandeliers, beds, carpets, plantpots, garden benches and so on...This place is absolutely fantastic...We keep walking in the hope we'll find what we want...then after a long while, we finally find a buffalo cart we can transform as a coffee table...it's got some work to be done on it but we love its shape and look...then we carry on our search...after many ideas and conversations, we suddely see a pair of beautiful wooden doors...that strikes us: that it'll become a dining table...
After many more conversations with the sellers (and heavy negociations!!!) we decide to go back to the guesthouse. We've spent about 4 hours in the warehouse and it's getting late. We take our taxi back (we asked him to wait for us) to Pahar Ganj but the sky has completely change colour. It's nearly black due to the thickness of the clouds. Then, on a large road, it starts pouring down as the pre-monsoon season is tearing the sky away...pure deluge, it seems that the see is falling from the heavens...we can't see much...and, suddenly, our taxi breaks down as a lorry passing by drives through a massive puddle and literally floods the car in a huge tidal wave...a little mud tsunami get the engine to drawn and splashes all over me through the small gap of the slightly opened window...we laugh out loud despite the discomfort...but the car does not start anymore...the engine is flooded. After waiting for a while on the motorway the driver calls for another taxi to come and pick us up. 20 minutes later our new taxi arrives. We are slightly soaked but never mind, it's about 45 degrees out there and we'll dry fast.
The bazar is as muddy as Verdun battlefield in the middle of the autumn...we kind of carefully walk in the middle of the puddle, slaloming between the patches and diverses obstacles...unexpectedly, in the middle of the brown and shiny ground, a man dressed in white on a white horse is parading like a prince in a sort of hallucinated vision and incredible drum noise...The groom and his family are going to pick up his bride...On the last day of our honeymoon we witness a beautiful traditional Indian wedding in one of the poorest and dirtiest area of Delhi...a beautiful flash of remembrance passes between us...In a rush I grab my camera and take a short movie of the scene...We make it to the hotel, rest for a little while and decide to go out again to eat and enjoy our last moments in the bazar. We walk the dark back alleys and enjoy sights of the life here, the barber shop still opened late at night, the corner outside, the restaurant kitchen busy with the sweaty glaring cooks making chapatis and other culinary delicatessen, the jeweller still making copper bracelets, the laundry man ironing at the light of a candle, the temples under a wan neon striplight, candy makers etc...few dark figures walk at some distance in the poorly lit alleys...few stray dogs emerge from nowhere and disappear in the dark...We live a very atmospheric moment...quite meaningful and meditative...We then arrive at our local restaurant, the kids are still there, playing with us and the camera again...they're funny...we need this on our last night...after a lovely dahl meal, we go and get a last chai...we make our way through the traffic of rickshaw, delivery boy with a massive cube of ice on the bike carrier, the rickshaw loaded so much it looks like an elephant, cows eating garbage, we meet 'Shiva', a young guy wearing a Bob Marley t-shirt who just wants to know where we're from and that I take a picture of him so we can remember him and Delhi, a very smiley figure...we then sit on the front step of the hotel and watch life going past...We're not talking much at this time, our throats are tight, our eyes humid...it's been six month we've been away...how is going to be the return? We go to bed and dream of all the experiences...
31/07
We wake up and finish packing. I order some tea for this morning and we make our way to the airport. The flight seems very long and we're not in great joy...we watch a movie or two or three, cry, sleep a bit...
We then arrive at Heathrow airport, it seems surreal...they aren't many travellers around, and we feel a bit 'mis-casted'...everything is so modern, sleek, people look down, grim....even the ones coming back from holidays look unhappy...luckily the sky is blue and it's kind of hot here today...around 30...that's still 15 degrees difference with this morning but at least it's not raining...We then see a familiar face round the corner...Bertrand is here to pick us up...it's a nice touch from our dear friends, the shock would be soften...We drive through London, see familiar places, we respectively talk about our last days...To welcome us home, they've also prepared a duck confit...one of our favourite dish. So nice of them...we then chat for a while and go to bed...
Tomorrow, our life will return in a familiar surrounding but it's down to us to make it different after all these months exploring, discovering, loving, laughing (see: smoking), hating, enjoying, crying, walking, surfing (wooosh), riding, trekking, panting (hard-breathing), diving (nice bubbles), flying (bad carbon footprint), crawling (can't remember this one too well), swimming (35 degrees in the sea, anyone?), eating (I could eat the world, but Vietnam will be enough!!!), drinking (I testify, you can find beer anywhere), smoking (not so much), driving (too much?), meditating, levitating (for joking, see: smoking again), yoga-ing, snapping, photographing (gosh, my first finger hurts), singing (la-laa-la, om, om...), writing, drawing, talking (see: drinking), and for the last two, please READ THE BLOG: dreaming and just LIVING...
